Bird Safety

Bird Safety

Here are some of the things you should be aware of to keep your pet bird as safe as possible in the home.

Above all use common sense. You already are likely aware of most of the items on our pet bird safety list below, but we are all human, and sometimes just forget or have other things on our mind.

* Non Stick or Teflon Coating This coating is found on non stick cookware but also waffle irons, bread machines, irons, ironing board covers, curling irons, space heaters, blow dryers and more.

* Kerosene or Gas type heaters which give off fumes

* Open Toilets, or any other deep water source. Once birds get wet, it's ll over for them, they have no ability to swim.

* Pets, cats are notorious for stalking birds, even dogs cannot be trusted.

* Electrical wires, extension cords...any wire a pet bird can and inevitably will chew on.

* Poisoning....insecticides sprayed in the home, ammonia, bleach, oven cleaner, glues, nail polish remover, paint, perfumes, heavy metals, and many other home cleaning products.

* Poisonous plants and some foods are also a danger.

Go Here for a complete list of Poisonous Plants & Foods for Birds http://careanimalhealth.blogspot.com/search/label/Birds

* Toys...a bird can stangle themselves with ropes made to hang toys. Rubber toys are a no no, birds have also been known to chew plastic toys and swallow the pieces.

* Ceiling fans

* Windows and mirrors...birds can fly in to these and seriously injure themselves.

* Impure Air....wood and coal stoves are a big source of indoor pollution, smoke will kill your bird quickly. Aerosol products of any kind should not be used around your bird.

Cigarette smoke has been implicated in respiratory disease in pet birds.

Carbon monoxide is also dangerous to birds, so use a carbon monoxide detector in the home, and be careful not to run your vehicle in an attached garage.

* Air Pollution....smog, dust in the air, exhaust fumes from vehicles, all can be very harmful to your pet bird.

Birds have a very delicate respiratory system, it must be protected at all times.

Find out more about how a bird's lungs work here: http://petcaretips.net/pure-air-bird.html

* Tap water....birds are much smaller than humans and will react to the chemicals in tap water, flouride and chlorine much quicker. Both of these chemicals are toxic and can harm your bird. Even well and spring water often has high concentractions of certain minerals and bacteria.

We recommend using Only steam distilled water. It is 99.9% pure water.

* Paint...in older houses the paint on the walls may contain lead.

* Bird Cages....some older bird cages have components made our of lead

* Scented Items...candles, potpourri, soaps, strong perfumes, etc.

* Loud Noises....birds can become scared and stressed when hearing loud, unfamiliar noises....stress leads to disease, being scared can cause them to flutter and fly in to things harming themselves.

* Hot Water...check the temperature of the water before giving it to your pet bird for a bath or drinking, also don't let your birds fly around the kitchen when you are cooking, steam rising from a boiling pot of water can cause the bird to be unable to fly and possibly drop on to the hot stove or in the pot of boiling water.

Quick List of common items which will harm your pet bird:

Asbestos
Bleach / Chlorine
Carbon Monoxide
Cigarette Smoke
Diazanon
Flea Bombs and Collars
Floor Polishes
Formaldehyde
Hair Dye and Spray
House Paint
Kerosene
Matches
Moth Balls
Nail Polish & Remover
Oil Paint
Oven Cleaner
Overheated Nonstick
Cookware/Teflons
Paint Remover
Perfume
Permanent Wave Solution
Pesticides
Shoe Polish and Cleaners
Spot Removers
Spray Starch
Suntan Lotions
Surgical Acrylics
Toilet Cleaners
Wax

Organic Pet Care

Organic Pet Care

According to statistics almost 10 millions tons of waste products that are the direct byproducts of cats and dogs take a tremendous toll on our environment annually. Experts note that exposes excrement can contaminate both soil and groundwater adding disease-carrying bacteria and parasites to them, while refuse that is bagged tends to lay idle in landfills. In addition, pets are frequently exposed to harmful levels of toxins due to the food and toy/product choices we owners make on their behalf. In fact, a recent 2008 study suggests that the hazardous toxic exposure for dogs and cat’s was significantly greater and more varied than it was for their owners…and that they say should prompt loving pet parents to take immediate precautions and action.

* Consider crafting their toys: Store-bought products are often manufactured in foreign lands that use lead and cadmium, that can be harmful to animals, especially those that chew on them and ingest the components. Time takes its toll at toxic chemicals and metals affect the nervous system, red blood cells and bowels, which may even be fatal. Can’t make your own toys at home. Consider “homemade” products…..those manufactured in the U.S.A. You can create your own using organic cotton and/or wool stuffing using an old-school sewing machine. You can even transform your old jeans, towels, socks or other stealthy fabrics into healthy playthings for Fido.

· Go Organic: Organic foods aren’t just for humans anymore. In fact, some pet food tainted with melamine that resulted in the illness and death of many family pets, just two or so years ago, got the attention of lots of loving pet owners. And, while the threat is no longer immenintly there, the need to choose wisely “IS”. Organic pet food reduces your pet’s exposure to growth hormones, antibiotics, and synthetic fertilizers. In addition, some agricultural experts suggest that the byproducts of producing traditional pet food proteins can compromise the water and soil supply. Experts suggest opting for USDA approved organic pet foods, which meet the same standards as human organics. They also recommend talking with your Vet about how to make some homemade kibble and bits for your pet, always keeping in mind that cats and dogs need special and specific combinations of nutrients that are often determined by a variety of factors including animal type, breed, and age. Still, nutritionally balanced homemade meals fare far better than bagged or canned varieties, primarily because the digestive systems of cats and dogs tend to process fresh, raw foods better than they do cooked foods. Plus, a healthy diet of balances raw foods will build their bodies’ resistance to worms. Again, just make sure to discuss options and recipes with your Vet first.

· Properly discard of doo-doo: Consider taking excrement to mills that offer pet-specific systems that rely on enzymes and heat to eradicate dangerous pathogens from fecal matter and transform it into safe fertilizer. Another option is buring your pup’s poop away from gardens and water sources, keeping it clear of coming in potential contact with humans. It’s best to discard waste in biodegradable poop baggies comprised of cornstarch plastic, since these bags tend to be more sustainable than petroleum-based polyethylene.

Cat poo should always be bagged and placed in the trash since it can carry an infectious parasite that’s harmful to fetuses and those with weaker immune systems. Keep in mind that a large portion of the nearly 2 million tons of nonbiodegradable kitty litter that’s hauled off to landfills yearly contains quartz silica, which is recognized by the California Environmental Protection Agency as carcinogenic to pets and humans alike. Experts suggest biodegradable litter made from recycled newspaper, sawdust pellets, and corn. Another option: chemical-free, wheat based kitty litter available in natural food markets. For odor removal, simply dust kitty litter with baking soda.

· Protect your pet from pests: Experts note that flea and pest prevention can be potentially more harmful to pets and humans than the pest itself. In fact, many researches suggest that many animals have been injured, some fatally by the exposure to these pesky pesticides often found in flea collars, aerosol sprays and other pest control products. And, even The Environmental Protection Agency has deemed these products “dangerous” for kids, since they are the ones that most often play with pets and then rub their eyes, mouth, etc.

Instead of products containing carbaryl, propoxur and tetrachlorvinphos, consider sprinkling a hint of brewer’s years, fresh garlic or flaxseed oil in your pet’s food, since fleas hate the smell and taste. Experts add that fleas also hate the smell of pennyroyal, lavender, mint, rosemary, sweet woodruff, and ceder…so you may want to add some of these scents to a collar or bandana and place it around your pet’s neck or rub the dried herbs into your pet’s coat. Another option is an herbal flea collar sold at a host of health food stores and pet stores respectively. If fleas have already gotten to your pet, sprinkle all pet beds, carpets, and lounging areas with boric acid salts….known to kill flea larvae sand harming pets or people.

How to Breed Macaws

When properly trained, macaws are delightful pet birds to have: intelligent, colorful, and able to talk! Breeding macaws, though, is a serious business that needs commitment by the breeder. But with due diligence and determination to see baby macaws, you too can learn how to breed macaws.

Get a Male and a Female Macaw

Unlike other bird species, macaws are monomorphic… meaning male and female macaws look alike. Make sure you get a male and a female macaw by buying “proven pair” macaws from reputable breeders. If you have macaws at home to begin with, have it sexed by an avian vet through DNA testing. DNA sexing is the most accurate way to determine a macaw’s gender.

Buying Guideline

Especially if you’re buying another macaw to bond with your macaw at home, you have to order a thorough health check for the new macaw. Request the seller to show recent certificate of complete physical, blood work, and culture of the bird’s throat and vent to prevent infecting your macaw at home with nasty bird diseases. If the seller is not willing to cooperate, find another seller or have your own vet check the bird before bringing it home. Your vet should be able to tell you the age, state of health, and correct gender of the macaw you’re planning to buy.

Bond the Breeding Pair

If you’re lucky, you can buy a “proven pair” that’s already bonded and ready to mate. But if you’re buying another macaw to bond with your macaw at home, it’s time to play matchmaker.

Although it’s possible to strike love at first between two macaws, it’s best to be patient when paring them. Start by placing the bird’s cages side by side. Adjust their perches to be level and in line with each other to create the illusion of sharing the same perch. It’s okay to give a little distance between their perches, which you can slowly decrease through time until the perches are adjacent with each other but still in separate cages. When you see the two mutually feeding each other through the cage, it’s time to join the bird in one cage.

Prepare the Nest

Prepare the nest because it’s not going to be long before the pair can use it. In the wild, macaws nest in cliff crevices or tree hollows. In your house, yourbreeding pair is happy to use an oak barrel or a rectangular wooden nest box measuring 12x12x36 inches.

If you use an oak barrel, remove the top and replace it with removable lid. Punch a hole in the middle just enough for a single parrot to comfortably enter and exit. If you use the wooded nest box, fashion a hinged door near the bottom just enough for you to comfortably check the baby macaws inside. But, make a separate bird hole in the middle for thebreeding pair to use as its door.

To prevent the breeding pair from jumping from the bird hole to the bottom of the nest, install a steel ladder where the breeding pair can use as stairs to go up and down the bottom of the nest. The nesting material should be wood chips (not pine or cedar) and small twigs you can gather from nearby woods. Encourage the breeding pair to participate in constructing the nest. Place a soft tree branch in the nest which the macaws can shred and make into nest material. Don’t forget to remove what’s left of the branch after the construction.

Parent Rearing Baby Macaws

For a newbie, it’s best that you let your parrots incubate and rear its offspring. Just supervise if the baby parrot is properly fed and taken care of by the parents. Macaws have strong parenting instinct to know how to care for their offspring from egg to adulthood. You don’t have to interfere in most cases.

Hand Rearing Baby Macaws

However, there are instances when the “proven pair” is not able to rear its young. In this case, you can take the eggs or the baby macaws from their parents and hand rear them yourself. Except for hyacinth and green wing macaws, macaw baby formulas are now available from pet bird stores or from your vet’s office. You can ask a veterinary technician to show you how to hand rear baby macaws to properly care for your fids (feathered kids).

Winter Care for Wild Birds

Winter Care for Wild Birds

Here in Michigan and other temperate climates, winter survival is everything for wild birds. The search for food starts at dawn and continues till dusk. If a bird is able to eat enough, it will store enough energy to survive a cold winter's night. It then starts all over for another day.

Wild birds or backyard birds depend on every seed, berry or insect it may find. With the continual decline of natural habitats, birds need our helping hands.

Caring and feeding for wild birds helps them to survive the winter and also gives you a sense of doing good. Helping out nature instead of taking from her.

Birds require food, fresh water, shelter from the elements and protection from predators.

FOOD: High energy food is important. Suet, peanuts, black oil sunflower seed all high energy food high in fat and protein. Nyjer thistle is a high source of energy for finches as well.

Cage feeders are designed to hold suet cakes, Tube and hopper feeders are designed to accommodate a variety of birds. Platform and peanut feeders are also available.

Pack down an area and toss some cracked corn and white millet for the ground scratching birds to enjoy.

FRESH WATER: I emphasize FRESH WATER here. With a lack of natural water sources available in cold winter months, water can be scarce. Fresh water even more so. While birds will and do eat snow, this drives down their body temperature and uses valuable energy to melt the snow and warm back up.

Offer up some water with a heated birdbath or put a heater in your current bath. heaters cost no more to run the a light bulb and can save a birds life. Look for heaters that come with a minimum three year guarantee.

SHELTER: From the harsh winter winds and a place to snuggle. Use your old Christmas tree, or hang a roosting box. Plant lots of bushes and trees for your birds to roost in. Evergreens work wonders here as a wind brake and protection from snow fall.

Most birds will die at night from a lack of food, water and protection. Food and water are life's essentials, protection helps your birds to conserve vital calories.

PROTECTION: Birds need to feel safe from danger and offering protection will keep your birds coming back. Place your feeders and Fresh water source near trees and bushes. Out in the open. Enough for your birds to see if hawks are around and away from places where cats might hide.

By placing your feeding stations 10 to 20 feet from trees and shrubs, your birds have an open view and can escape most attacks from the air or the ground.

Research shows that birds get 25% of their food from human sources. How important is that 25% on any given winter's night?

Backyard birding is a healthy hobby for all and just about anyone can feed the birds. A hobby that can last a lifetime.

Ron Patterson has been caring for wild birds for more then 40 years. Besides being a backyard birding expert, Ron is a Michigan Certified Nurseryman. As a nurseryman, he has combined his passions to design and plant backyard habitats to bring nature closer to home. Through most of the 90's to 2001, Ron and his wife Karen owned and operated their own wildbird specialty store. Ron also writes a down home weekly newsletter and backyard birding and garden tips.

How To Raise and Grow Your Own Mealworms

How To Raise and Grow Your Own Mealworms

An additional commentary about mealworms, following the article in the most recent issue of The Bird's-Eye reView, came from Kathryn Kessler in Newton, Iowa.

"I have been feeding mealworms for two years now and find them incredibly easy to raise. I keep a supply going year 'round,"

she wrote.

"I have two plastic tubs (13 1/2 x 17x 6) with lids in which I use a mix of wheat bran and chicken feed (non-medicated) for the worm bedding.

I add sliced carrots, zucchini, celery or lettuce. "The worms cycle through to the bug form, which lays eggs in the bedding.

The eggs hatch into tiny worms that grow to adults and the life cycle then repeats itself. "In the spring and summer I sometimes feed as many as 100 worms a day when the birds are busy feeding their young.

I have had great success attracting several bird species to the mealworms. My favorites to watch are the catbirds that make trip after trip to the feeder, eat a few worms and then select two or three to take back to their nestlings.

My biggest frustration is with the robins, which are gluttons of the highest magnitude. I counted as one robin packed 25 worms in its bill before it flew away.

I have been feeding the worms from a shallow dish on the deck floor. But I am considering some kind of hanging feeder with an opening which would exclude someof the larger birds.

Mealworms have been a great addition to my birds' diets."

Editor's note: Kathryn's experience with live bird food is a great addition to The Bird's-Eye reView. Our thanks to her for sharing so that other members can benefit.

Sparrows Are Not Just

Sparrows Are Not Just 'Birds of a Feather

Of all the birds that visit backyards in search of food during the fall and winter, native sparrows -- as opposed to the ubiquitous House or English Sparrow -- often are overlooked or ignored. That's unfortunate.

Though they may lack the brilliance of a cardinal or the personality of a chickadee, these sparrows are among the most loyal feeder birds.

Many native sparrows eat black-oil sunflower seeds, millet and cracked corn.

Unlike many birds, however, they prefer to take their meals at ground level or on low platform feeders. This makes sparrows nice to have around because they help clean up the seeds other birds leave beneath hanging or pole-mounted feeders.

At first glance, sparrows all seem to look alike. Trying to identify them can make you dizzy.

But if you concentrate on their individual markings, it's fun and not too difficult. Song sparrows exemplify the classic LBJ (little brown job). Careful study, however, will reveal several distinctive markings, such as their pink legs and feet.

They have a long, rounded tail, which they pump up and down when they fly. Their white throat is bordered by long, dark stripes that suggest a mustache. And the white belly and chest are marked by heavy brown streaks that often converge into a central breast spot. They're not so nondescript, after all.

Dark-eyed juncos often are called "snowbirds" because when you see them in winter, they resemble their surroundings: gray above and white below.

A junco's charcoal gray body contrasts with its white belly, white outer tail feathers which flash in flight, and the bright pink bill. The body of a female junco is a duller brownish-gray.

Some sparrows can be identified just by seeing their heads. Handsome white-throated sparrows, as the name suggests, have a prominent white throat. Their head is marked with bold black and white stripes. The broad eyebrow stripe is yellow in front of the eye and white or tan behind it.

White-crowned sparrows look as though they are wearing a bicycle helmet because of the black and white stripes on their heads.

The aptly named golden-crowned sparrow, a bird of the Pacific coast, has an orange-yellow stripe through the center of its crown and a broad, black border along the sides.

Both male and female Harris sparrows are strikingly marked with a black crown, face, throat and upper breast.

Tree sparrows are easy to recognize. Look first for a dark spot in the middle of an otherwise plain breast. Then note the rusty crown, a fine rusty stripe behind the eye, two white wing bars and a streaked back.

If you've had trouble identifying the ground feeders in your yard, or perhaps never even tried, knowing what to look for will make it easier. Use a field guide and a pair of binoculars, and you'll become a sparrow specialist in no time.

Birds - Some Fascinating Facts

Birds - Some Fascinating Facts

Birds are truly beautiful creatures. They are fascinating and all around us, roosting and nesting on our buildings and feeding in our gardens. We can travel to see them in exotic places, or just look out our window ... they are easy to find and fun to observe. Birds are probably the most beloved group of wild animals on the planet. Their ubiquitous presence, colorful form, intelligent actions and cheeky mannerisms endear them to us all. They are easy to love.

There are roughly 300 billion birds of nearly 10,000 species that now inhabit the earth. This only a small fraction of the number of birds that have existed since the Age of Dinosaurs. While new species are occasionally discovered in remote areas, 150,000 species have been identified from fossil remains proving that most bird species are now extinct. Birds can be found on all major land masses from the poles to the tropics, as well as in or over all our seas, oceans and islands.

The most common or populous wild bird in the world is the Red-billed Quelea (Quelea quelea) in Africa. The most common bird in the world is the domestic chicken which breeders have developed from the Red Jungle Fowl (Gallus gallus). Fear has been expressed that pure Red Jungle Fowl may now be extinct in the wild. The most widespread commonly seen wild bird is probably the European House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) which has been transported all over the world by European settlers. It can now be found on two-thirds of the land masses of the world including Europe, North America, Australia, New Zealand and India.

There are three ways of measuring size in birds ... heaviest, tallest and wingspan length. To date the records are held, as follows:

* Heaviest - The extinct Dromornis stirtoni from Australia, also known as the Thunder Bird. This flightless giant lived between 8-6 million years ago and stood nearly 3m/10ft tall, weighing in at a massive 500kg/1100lb. Around same height as the Giant Moa of New Zealand (below), this huge bird weighed about twice as much.

* Tallest - Dinornis, the extinct Moas from the North and South Island of New Zealand were the tallest of the flightless birds in this Genera. Dinornis giganteus lived on the North Island of New Zealand and D. robustis on the South Island. They ranged in height to over 3m/10ft (with some statistics indicating up to 4m/13ft) and weighed about 250kg/550 lbs. By studying the cross-sections of fossils, scientists found that Moas took more than 10 years to reach adult size, in contrast to our modern birds, including ostriches, that tend to reach full size within a year.

* Longest Wingspan - Another extinct bird, this time from South America, has the record for largest flying bird and longest wingspan. The Giant Teratorn (Argentavis magnificens) had a wingspan of at least 6m/19.5ft and could possibly have been as large as 7.5m/25ft.

* Smallest - It is generally agreed that this record is held by the Bee Hummingbird (Mellisuga helanae) from Cuba. This tiny bird is 5.7cm/2.25in and weighs less than 1/10 of an ounce. Shortest wings and body length are not really appropriate measurements because they are disproportionately affected by whether or not the bird is flightless and/or it's beak length. Another major contender for smallest bird is the Little Woodstar from South America. Both these tiny miracles of life fly very competently. The smallest flightless bird is the Inaccessible Island Rail (Atlantisia rogersi). Reaching a mere 12.5cm/5in in length and weighing 35g/1.45oz. This little beauty can only be found in the southern Atlantic Tristan da Cunha Islands.

* Bird Feathers - It must be a tedious job, but there are people who've taken the time to count the feathers on different species of birds. Who has the fewest feathers? That distinction goes to the Ruby-throated Hummingbird (Archilochus colubris) with 940. And the bird with the most ... the Swan with about 20,000.

* How Long Do Birds Live? - Survival is tough business if you are a bird. Life brings many challenges from natural and man-made dangers. Unfortunately, banding studies show that most birds die in their first year of life. But here are some record lifespans: Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias) 23.25 years, Canada Goose (Branta canadensis) 23.5 years, Blue Jay (Cyanocitta cristata) 18.33 years, Red-winged Blackbird (Agelaius phoeniceus) 15.75 years and Northern Cardinal (Cardinalis cardinalis) 15.75 years.

Other bird facts of interest:

* Fastest - This record goes to the Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus) whose diving speeds have been clocked at 200 mph! This is pretty fast in anyone's book ... but remarkable when compared to the slow speed of a Hummingbird at 27mph. But doesn't that 27mph seem fast as the buzz by you on their way to the next flower or hummingbird feeder?

* Highest Flyer - While most birds fly a few hundred feet off the ground, migrating birds fly much higher to take advantage of favorable winds. While geese will fly over Mt. Everest at 29,000ft and South American condors (Vultur gryphus) range up to 20,000ft, the high flying record must go to the unfortunate vulture that collided with a jetliner over West Africa at a whopping 37,000ft!

* Migration - There is no doubt that birds are the most mobile creatures on earth. Many migrate from the northern to southern hemisphere each year. Most notable are the seabirds that spend long periods of time at sea, perhaps years, without landing and traveling from one side of the world to the other. But the Artic Tern (Sterna paradisea) is a real champ, migrating from far northern regions to the coast of Antartica each year, a 22,000 mile round trip.

If you enjoy birds then it is important to face how birds are threatened. Birds have been on the planet much longer than things man has created that cause their death. Millions of birds die each year from collisions with buildings, windows, radio/television/cell phone towers and lighthouses to name a few.

Man has also created hazards with devastating consequences by introducing animals and insects to different parts of the world. For example, while exact numbers are unknown, experts estimate that each year domestic and feral cats kill hundreds of millions of birds, and more than a billion small mammals, such as rabbits, squirrels, and chipmunks in North America each year. Land development removes needed habitat such as wetlands, forests, fields, beaches and other areas that birds depend on for food, especially on long migrations. Many species are now extinct and many more are threatened with extinction. We, who care about birds, need to do our part to protect them and preserve their habitats if they are to survive. No one wants to see a bird or other animal suffer bad consequences. What will we receive in return? ... The ability to continue enjoying these fascinating and beautiful creatures.

Private Dog Training

Private Dog Obedience Training Instruction Located in Carroll County Maryland

Private Maryland Dog Obedience Training Instruction

PRIVATE TRAINING

EXCEL-erated Private Dog Obedience Training School:

Coeur d'Lion's personalized, private dog training programs featuring EXCEL-erated Training are custom designed to address the dog behavior problems you may be experiencing on a ONE-ON-ONE basis. This type of training provides you with individual, private dog obedience training instruction that you may not receive in a group class environment.

Our Private EXCEL-erated Dog Obedience Training program covers the 6 Basic Obedience commands essential to establishing leadership and control of your dog in any environment. Behavior problems are addressed in depth during these Personalized dog obedience training sessions while you are instructed how to teach your dog to be a calm, controlled companion. You will learn how to effectively control your dog ON AND OFF LEAD under any number of distractions including the presence of other dogs, automobiles, strangers and other triggers that may elicit inappropriate behavior in your dog.

The premier EXCEL-erated Private Dog Obedience Training Program provides all of the above in a reasonable time frame, is comprehensive for both owners and dogs and affords an ease of use that enables owners to enjoy their dogs in a way that nature intended, off leash or on. QUICKLY! Stress free training that is unequaled in it's ability to communicate HUMANELY and EFFECTIVELY in half the time it takes for any other form of training.

The cost of training your dog with the EXCEL-erated Private Dog Obedience Training program located in Carroll County Maryland:

*Behavior problems identified prior to the beginning of EXEL-erated Private Dog Obedience training may be contracted for different lengths of time depending on the nature and severity of the behavior. Certain restrictions apply. Assessment must be conducted by Coeur d'Lion prior to any agreement and may affect the fees listed for these services.

Dog Behavior

Dog Behavior and Why Dogs Bite

As the old adage goes, “Dogs are man’s best friend.” However, there are times when people just can’t understand why their beloved dogs behave in a different manner. Hence, it is extremely important to know the underlying reasons why dogs sometimes behave differently.

You can teach your dog appropriate behavior. Experts say that dog behaviors can be controlled through proper training.

Dog behavior are actually responses that are mostly triggered by environmental and social factors. Hence, to control these responses, the owner should teach his dogs the proper way to respond to such elements. Let’s explore a few of the methods:

The Dog Bite:

If you are living in the U.S, statistics have show that every year almost 6 million people are victims of dog bites. That is a shocking 2% of the total U.S population. It is no surprise that dog bites rank as the second most common cause of hospital emergencies cases.

The question is, Why do dogs bite?

According to the animal experts, the main reasons why a dog bite are:

1). Excitement

When somebody plays with their dog, the tendency of their dog getting excited is almost certain, and because dogs don’t have hands to use when playing, they use their mouth to grasp things. When this happens, that over thrilled ‘excitedness’ get to him and very often, the dog might accidentally hurt people unintentionally.

2). Protection

Dogs are creatures of possessiveness, so, whenever he wants to protect something that belongs to him, his animal instincts take over rapidly and he will bite whoever threatens to take away his belongings. Never take away a dogs belongings if you don’t know him well enough.

3). Pain

When the dog is not feeling well, he does not understand why he is feeling that way. Therefore, when a person, even if it’s his master, touches him, he may think that it’s the person who causes the pain and so his tendency is to fight back by biting.

4). Fear

Dogs are sometimes afraid just like humans. That is why when somebody startles him, the dog’s only known protection for itself is to bite back.

The best thing is to avoid these situations and leave the dog alone. Although dogs may be cute and nice to play with, the problem with so many people especially strangers is they never leave the dog alone. A dog with a wagging tail may not always be friendly. If you are a stranger, always ask the owner if you can play with his dog if you are in doubt.

Like humans, dogs have feelings too. When these feelings are all mixed up, their only known protection for themselves is to bite back because they cannot understand and process these situation in a logical manner.

How To Handle A Puppy

Barking Problems – How To Handle A Puppy That Barks For Attention

For any new dog owner, handling all of the loud barking of a new puppy can be quite an unnerving experience. Most new dog owners are not prepared for the intense amount of barking and yelping that young puppies start doing the minute they arrive in their new home. Although it is totally natural, some puppies do not give their owners the luxury of quieting down, especially at night.

One of the biggest phases that a puppy will go through is the fear of being alone. And I’m not talking about being alone in the sense of you leaving the house. Some puppies will go absolutely nuts even when you only leave the room for a split second. They just can’t bear to be alone because they are used to having their mommy or littermates around non-stop.

When faced with this situation, what you do? If you run to your puppy to sooth and caress him every time he cries, then you are only feeding the behavior and creating a spoiled dog. On the other hand, if you ignore him and let him bark his brains out, the rest of the family (especially your spouse) will become very annoyed with you for letting the barking go on.

It’s like being stuck between a rock and a hard place, however, we do have some tips to help you deal with your puppy barking situation:

1. The first step is to try to ignore your puppy’s barking if at all possible without yelling at him. Yelling will either scare him from wanting to come near you or will further add to his anxiety levels that and he will continue barking.

2. There is a product called a “teaching lead” which will enable your puppy to be around you at all times in the house. Use these types of tools so that your puppy can be around you while he is getting used to his independence.

3. When you leave the house, try to refrain from long and drawn out departures. Although it’s understandable to want to pet your puppy and talk sweet to her before leaving the house, it only creates more stress because she will start to associate your behavior with you leaving her side. The same advice goes when you arrive home. Avoid big and exciting welcomes after walking through the door.

4. Try using a simple training aid to get your puppy to quiet down immediately when she is barking. A water bottle that sends a quick burst of streaming spray is a perfect idea. Or you could use a small tin can filled with a few pennies in it. When you go to leave her side and she starts barking, simply throw that can in her area. It will create a startling noise while at the same time diverting her attention.

Stages of Puppy Teeth

Newborn Teeth

Puppies are initially born without teeth. They do not receive their first puppy teeth until they reach the age of between six and eight weeks old. They grow a total of 28 teeth, which are known as baby teeth or deciduous teeth. The first teeth that fall out are the incisor teeth, followed by the premolars and the canines. Puppies do not have molar teeth, only premolars. Their upper and lower canine teeth are at the back of their mouths and are larger. Their upper and lower incisor teeth are located in the middle.

Teething

For puppies, the teething process continues for several months, off and on. For a puppy, this can be an uncomfortable and painful period. When puppies are teething, they increase their biting and chewing and test out different objects and texture to relieve the discomfort.

Losing Teeth

Between the ages of three months and seven months, a puppy begins to lose its deciduous teeth. Each deciduous tooth root will generally be absorbed by the adult tooth, though there are instances where this does not properly occur. At three months, the incisors begin to fall out to make room for the new adult teeth. At the age of four months, the adult molars and adult canines are beginning to come in. Between the ages of six and seven months, the adult molars will come in. Finally, by seven to eight months, the full set of adult teeth should have come in.

Considerations

By the time a puppy is eight months old, it should have a full set of a total of 42 teeth, but some breeds have more or fewer. The larger the dog, generally speaking, the faster the teeth will appear. Doberman pinchers are an example of dogs that have fewer teeth. Spaniels and greyhounds tend to have more teeth. At the age of between three months and four months, a puppy should be checked out by a veterinarian to make sure that there are no bite problems. If bad bite is occurring as a result of puppy teeth, pulling the baby teeth prematurely may be necessary.

Puppy Training Hints

Puppy training strategies are often absolute: use treats; never use treats; reward good behavior only; punish bad behavior. Proponents of each theory are often absolute about its effectiveness. Whatever system you use, be consistent.

Puppies Are Babies

There can be no more understanding creature than a well-trained, effectively socialized family dog. Imagine human babies given to a group of dogs to raise: Romulus, Remus and Mowgli aside, several historical feral children have provided evidence (see Reference 1) that a baby socialized by another species will assume that species' behaviors. If we expect dogs to adopt our ground rules at a tender age, keep in mind that they require the same patience and love as any baby. They are puzzled and often frightened by our expressions of frustration when we try to force them to do what we want them to do. Given enough time, they'd probably pick it up on their own. Training guides the process.

Training Requires Commitment

New dog owners are advised to sign up for obedience training. This good advice is often essential for the humans as well as the dog. Local humane societies, technical colleges and vets frequently offer low-cost courses. Visit courses and decide what kind of training you can discipline yourself to apply consistently. Find courses that have "students" that resemble "Baby" in size and abilities---expecting a Great Dane to perform agility exercises with a class full of Shar-Peis and Chihuahuas is unfair. Find out how soon Baby should be enrolled (trainers usually want housebroken dogs old enough to concentrate for three "reps" of a behavior) and sign him up. Whatever training you choose, repeat lessons on at least a daily basis, doing three repetitions of each behavior before reward, praise or play. If you have a serious attitude about training, Baby will follow your lead.

Babies Make Mistakes

Babies come with two handicaps: They have remarkably short attention spans and little retentive ability. Both develop with age. When Baby "arrives," design for success. Take him to his toileting location after eating and awakening and watch for the signs at other times that he needs to "go." If you ignore him, he'll start to have accidents. All he's ever known is that Mom takes care of it and you need to help him learn new behavior. Remember that dogs are pack animals and that you're the top dog; don't put Baby out of sync with his place in the pack---like in your bed or standing over you. Although an older dog might adapt, Baby will be confused. Use his name without adding diminutives or "pet" names. He needs to learn his name in order to respond properly; he'll know how you feel about him by your tone of voice, not what you call him.

Punishment is an extreme response---use only gentle verbal expressions of disappointment at the moment of the incident to avoid confusion. Concentrate on providing loving praise for jobs well done and Baby will respond with enthusiasm and repeated success.

Caring for Your Cat’s Teeth

Fifteen years ago, on the day I picked up my first cat at the local shelter, the volunteer on duty handed me a paper grocery bag full of pet supplies.

“Here are some free samples,” she said, tossing the sack into the back of my car. “There’s some good stuff in there.”

When I got home I found, among the little pouches of kibble and pink fur mice, a tiny red toothbrush and a small tube of toothpaste, fish flavored. Soon afterward came my first lesson in feline dental hygiene, and as it turns out, cats don’t find fish toothpaste as enticing as you’d expect.

Regular Brushing

Although they don’t seem to appreciate it, brushing your cat’s teeth on a regular basis (veterinarians recommend two times a week) is one of the most important things you can do for their health. Brushing removes the plaque on your cat’s teeth that can become tartar—the dark, calcified substance accumulating along the gumline that causes both tooth decay and gum disease.

Besides being painful, decaying teeth and infected gums can cause a number of health problems in cats including kidney, liver and heart disease. Elevated levels of bacteria in a cat’s bloodstream can tax its immune system, making it more susceptible to illnesses and cancer.

Learning to brush your cat’s teeth effectively takes both patience and the right equipment. Be sure to use toothpaste meant for cats. Ingredients in human toothpaste can be toxic to their systems. Use a cat’s toothbrush as well. They are much smaller and softer than those meant for people.

The best way to brush a cat’s teeth is to place her on a table facing away from you. Lifting the cat’s jowls, gently rub the toothbrush along the gumline of her upper and lower teeth on both sides. You may need someone to help you the first few times you try this, but if you’re consistent your cat will get used to it, and soon it will become a routine event.

Food, Water and Treats

As a rule, dry cat food is better for your cat’s teeth than the canned variety, as it works to remove some of the build-up from their teeth as they chew. Several manufacturers also now make “dental diet” foods and treats which, if fed regularly, can help keep your cat’s teeth in good shape. Hill’s, Science Diet, and Friskies all currently make dental food products that are readily available at most grocery and pet stores.

Additives for your cat’s water are also available to help keep their teeth healthy. These help keep bacteria levels down in the cat’s mouth, as well as contain chemicals which fortify their teeth against decay, much the same way that fluoride in human drinking water does. Dental water additives for cats are available in most pet supply stores.

Home Oral Exams

Although your veterinarian will check your cat’s teeth during her annual examination it’s a good idea to check your cat’s mouth for problems more often. According to the animal care Web site PetEducation.com , 70% of cats show signs of gum disease by the time they are three-years-old.

Be on the lookout for things like swollen, red gums, especially “lumps” along the gumline which may indicate abscesses. Watch for broken, cracked or missing teeth, and keep an eye on teeth that may already be broken for signs of decay. Chronic bad breath is also a sign of trouble. If you find anything that seems problematic, call your veterinarian.

Doing oral exams on a regular basis becomes more important as your cat ages. Older cats tend to have more dental issues than younger ones, and the health repercussions of tooth decay in older cats are often more serious.

Professional Feline Dental Care

If you haven’t been brushing your cat’s teeth regularly (or at all) don’t worry. A veterinarian can clean your cat’s teeth in much the same way that your teeth are cleaned at the dentist. Your cat will be anesthetized and the veterinarian will use a sonic device, much like those used by human dentists, to remove the tartar build-up from your cat’s teeth. This treatment is very effective, removing tartar even from below the gumline.

Any rotten or broken teeth the vet finds will be removed, and a protective coating will be applied to the teeth. You may also be given an at-home treatment to apply. Depending on the extent of gum inflammation and/or tooth decay present prior to the cleaning you may also need to give your cat an antibiotic for a few days.

The recommended time frame for cats having a professional cleaning varies by individual animal. Ask your veterinarian how long you should wait between professional cleanings.

During a recent oral exam of my own cat, now age fifteen, I found a large abscess beneath her front gums, a problem that can arise in older cats in spite of a lifetime of brushing. The vet told me it was lucky that I’d found it. Had I waited another six months for her regular check up the infection may have caused irreparable health problems.

For all the joy and companionship your cat brings you, brushing her teeth, feeding her healthful foods, and performing periodic oral exams are simple, inexpensive ways to give her something in return. They’ll improve your own life, too, because they’re sure to help keep your feline friend around for a long time to come.

Long-haired Cats at home

Grooming Long-haired Cats at Home

While most people think of animal groomers as working primarily on dogs, there are a number of reasons you may want to consider for grooming thick or long haired cats. Cats are, to a great extent, self groomers. They lick themselves clean, in the process removing dead hair. However, there are a few reasons to help them out a bit, especially in the case of long or thick coated cats. Short haired cats may need help too, but different tools work better for them.

Reasons to groom

• Clean up matted hair
• Prevent hairballs
• Increase bond with cat
• Reduce shedding and allergens
• Practice for if/when kitty is too old to do it themselves

Tools needed for grooming cats with long hair

You will have to try different tools until you find what works best for your cat’s particular hair thickness and texture, but the following are good places to start:

• Comb
• Shedding comb
• Pin brush
• Slicker brush
• Coat spray (not aerosol!)

How to groom long haired cats

Some cats enjoy the grooming process, some do not. For the first session, I’d recommend keeping it short and pleasant, with as many treats as possible. It helps if you groom at a time when the cat is normally happy and relaxed. Have all your tools ready beforehand—even the most tolerant of cats is not going to wait around while you go and get the comb you forgot. You can either put the cat on a grooming table in front of you, or any table or counter with a towel or non-skid mat on it, or you can try to hold the kitty in your lap.

Nails First : You can buy cat nail trimmers, or use people nail trimmers—just make sure they are sharp. Remove only the curved part, just the tips. Cat nails are translucent, so even if they are not white you should be able to see where the quick (the blood supply) occurs in the nail. Make sure not to trim too close to the quick.

Brushing : Use a soft slicker brush and gently lift the coat up with your hand, brushing in layers from the skin out. Lightly spray the coat to reduce static, or spray the brush instead. Ring 5 Coat Gloss is my favorite, but there are several on the market that will work well. (Make sure whatever grooming spray you purchase is specifically labeled for cats—there are chemicals that are very harmful to cats that have no effect on dogs or humans).

Combing : Use a comb with medium spacing, or one with medium on one end and coarse on the other. Gently comb through, both checking to see if you have left any snags, and using the comb to remove excess undercoat. Be gentle. Combs with blunt ends or ones with rotating teeth may be effective while producing less tugging. The shedding comb, with uneven length teeth, is ideal for removing excess undercoat and some cats mind it less.

If your cat is upset by any portion of the grooming, change to doing something he didn’t mind for a few moments, or just pet him. Give him a treat and end the session. Next time work just a few moments longer before stopping. Before you know it you will both be enjoying your special time together.

*Note: If your cat is a show cat, the undercoat should not be removed, and there is a lot more to the grooming. Consult someone knowledgeable in your breed before grooming your show cat at home.

Heart Disease in Cats

Heart Disease in Cats

Are you ever amazed at how your cat acts like a person? If only we could protect our cats from developing the same diseases as people. Unfortunately, cats can develop diseases that are also common in humans, such as heart disease. Although treatments cannot reverse heart disease, your cat can live a relatively normal life. Aging is the most common reason cats develop a heart condition, but other factors like heartworm can also lead to heart disease.

If your cat exhibits the following symptoms, take her to your veterinarian for an accurate diagnosis:

• A low-pitched cough that sometimes leads to gagging
• Breathing difficulties that include shortness of breath
• Reduced ability to exercise
• Noticeable weight gain or loss
• Swelling in the abdomen

These symptoms are common in other diseases, so it is important for your vet to check you cat for heart disease using some of these methods:

• A stethoscope exam can reveal murmurs and fluid in the lungs
• Palpation can reveal unusual pulses
• X-rays reveal heart enlargement
• An EKG can identify heart enlargement and irregular rhythms
• Blood and urine tests can reveal heartworms and the condition of other internal organs

Heart disease typically causes the heart to enlarge, and this enlargement causes a loss of efficiency. The heart then begins to hold more fluid than it should and this is where the real problems begin. For this reason, veterinarians recommend feeding cats a low-sodium food that will help reduce fluid build-up and make it easier for their heart to work effectively.

For an accurate diagnosis and treatment options, always consult your veterinarian.

Dental Disease in Cats

Dental Disease in Cats

Good dental health is important for your well-being, and it's very important for your cat's health, too.

Plaque, a colorless film on your cat's teeth, is the perpetrator of bad breath and gum disease. Because she doesn't brush her teeth like you do, this plaque can cause tartar buildup. The result is swelling, redness and inflammation of the gums - otherwise known as gingivitis. If not checked, your cat can develop periodontal disease, which can destroy the gums and tissue that support her teeth.

The condition is serious, but don't worry: dental disease is preventable and treatable in most cats. Ask your veterinarian for a complete oral checkup for your cat and schedule regular dental cleanings.

You can also help clean her teeth daily - just by feeding her. Normal dry pet food provides a dental benefit for your cat because when she crunches on the kibbles, the moderate scraping action cleans her teeth. If your cat has the more serious symptoms of gingivitis, specially formulated foods are available which can do a much better job of cleaning her teeth than normal dry food. Ask your veterinarian for help in selecting the best cat food for her.

To learn more about dental health in pets, visit PetDental.com, a Web site sponsored by Hill's and the American Veterinary Dental Society.

For an accurate diagnosis and treatment options, always consult your veterinarian.

Skin Problems

Skin Problems: Natural Solutions For Your Pet

Natural Solutions For Your Pet

Do you have or know someone who has a pet with a skin problem? Does it have an itch, scratch or wound slow to heal? Would you like to know about some all natural conditioners and toxin removers? How about some non-toxic ways to help your pet fight warts, malignancy, boils and abscesses. Here is my all natural non-toxic hit list, derived from thirty year's experience, with hundreds of pets and animals.

Skin problems seem to be a major issue with cats, dogs and people. Here are a few all natural, alternative non-toxic solutions.

A skin and itch problem is the body's self preservation mechanism for getting rid of toxins. In the old days' doctors used to treat skin ailments with mercury, which either worked or killed the patient. If the patient didn't die, the strong medicine drove the affliction back into the body . This action caused great harm to the patient later on because some serious disease would ensue.

Cortisone and other manufactured products although not as toxic as mercury runs the threat of adding additional toxins to the body. Topically applied synthetic salves can drive toxins into internal organs like the liver, gall bladder and others. Twenty years ago European doctors discovered that the body mechanism will surround and confine diseased tissue by forming benign or cancerous tumors. On the light side skin problems may be a good sign because in most cases the body is not fighting some internal disease.

Skin problems can be easily remedied through proper diet, homeopathic remedies, cleansing herbs and essential body trace minerals. The skin is the largest organ in the body. It plays its part in releasing toxins out and away from the body. This natural motion should be encouraged and not suppressed as with topical medications. To help assist the body and prevent many skin ailments, eating foods that help the body eliminate toxins is by far the safest and most natural approach.

Here are a few non-toxic natural suggestions to help your pet or yourself overcome many skin ailments.

Make sure your pet has available plenty of fresh clean, bottled spring water throughout the day.

Apple Cider Vinegar is the natural king of skin remedies. It is wonderful for itching and scratching pets as well as a superb skin and hair conditioner. Good old apple cider vinegar either straight or diluted 50/50 with water can be applied directly to the affected area and allowed to dry. It will eliminate dandruff, rejuvenate hair, skin and help sweeten and balance the pH levels in the body. When giving your pet a bath, shampoo, rinse, then apply apple cider vinegar either straight or diluted, followed by rinsing with water. Notice, any residue shampoo will be washed out and you will feel and see an increased softness and sheen to the coat. It can be followed with a conditioner of your choice. Taken internally will help the body against arthritis, itching, obesity, bad odor, dry skin, joint problems, lack luster hair and weak immune system. Average dosage for a dog or person is 1/2 oz morning and 1/2 oz. evening. A cat is half that dose. Can be diluted fifty fifty with water, dripped on food. Finicky pets try tiny doses then work up to suggested amount.

The best skin itch toxin removing free radical scavenger is extracted from pine bark. An all natural ingredient for flushing out toxins from the body. 1/8 tsp. daily sprinkled on food or in water is the best protection against excess toxin buildup. It will help the body be more efficient in assimilating vitamins' minerals and nutrients. It will also help the body fight cancer, tumors and other diseases related to pollutants.

Yellow and green colored foods are great toxin relievers for the body. Watermelon is one of the best free radical scavengers.

Parasites and viruses like warts and herpes can be eliminated in most cases by adding to drinking water, one cup of Celandine (common marigold flowers) tea and or apply externally. It's used by doctors throughout Europe to heal malignant skin cancers.

Wound healing, scars and scar tissue: Vitamin E oil will speed healing and minimize scar tissue from forming. Squeeze capsules onto wounds, abrasions, burns and on eye lids for inflamed eye problems. It will not burn and will soothe and ease pain almost immediately.

Homeopathic Skin Remedies, boil and abscess medicines:

Belladonna 8x: (animal potency) for early stages of any localized boil or abscess. If it appears to be painful, red, hot and swelling. If belladonna doesn't help or if treatment has begun more than 24 hours after symptoms set in, choose from the following:

Hepar Sulph 8x: (animal potency) Often helps heal inflammation by absorbing the boil. If boil is painful to touch, Hepar is an excellent choice. Hepar boils are tender to the slightest touch and sensitive too cold. Hepar and Silica are good medicines for boils that are slow to heal. Avoid taking these two remedies together since they cancel each other out when taken at the same time.

Silica 8x: (animal potency) should be take 2 or 3 times a day after a boil has been lanced and drained. Silica is indicated when a boil comes on slowly or red and swelling persist for days without developing pus. Firm red lumps that persist after a boil has mostly healed is relieved by a dose or two of Silica 36c or Silica 8x take twice daily for a week or two. Silica 8x, helps reduce pimples and washes toxins out of the body. It gives hair a shine helps nails grow strong and makes pimples disappear.

Lachesis 8x (animal potency): is indicated if the abscess is bluish or purplish, the pus may be dark and thin and the abscess tender. Take care to discontinue this medicine the minute improvement begins.

Arsenicum 4x (animal potency): for itching, burning, swellings, eruptions which are dry, rough, scaly, worse from cold and scratching. Helps with Psoriasis.

Sulphur 2x (animal potency): for dry scaly unhealthy skin, freckles, itching and burning , made worse from scratching. Pimply eruptions in the uterus.

Echinacca 2x (animal potency): boils, ulcers, erysipelas, gangrene, venus, puerperal infections. Afflictions from insect bites and poisonous plants.

Berberis 3x (animal potency): pimply, dry, rough and scaly skin. psoriasis, acne, dry eczema.

Graphites 8x (animal potency): pimples, acne, eruptions, rough, hard, dryness, unhealthy skin.

Ferr. Phos. 8x (animal potency): for abscess, heat and pain.

Aconite 8x (animal potency): for; red, hot, swollen, dry, burning, rash like measles, goose flesh.

Sulphur 8x (animal potency): The master skin remedy. When in doubt of what to give or if other remedies are not working Sulphur will either heal or prepare the way. Use it for dry, scaly, unhealthy, itching, burning, hard hair and skin or when every little injury suppurates.

PETS & POOP PATROL!

PETS & POOP PATROL!

Ever feel like you are on the perpetual poop patrol for your pets? Well, join the club! Most of our roles as caretakers involve taking care of those basic needs. What on earth could be said about this lovely topic? Lots! There is a whole lot of information and even some legal regulations regarding this topic; many pet owners don’t even know about them.

Whether you have a fabulous feline or a crazy canine there are some little tidbits you should be aware of related to their elimination habits! If you take your animals out in public or just let them meander, you are responsible for picking up the poop! It is the law and it is important to do for other reasons than getting a simple fine for breaking the rules!

Poop patrol is important for regulating the health of your pet, the environment, and others. Leaving your pet’s land-mine behind creates problems beyond being unsightly and a hazard to someone’s clean shoes. Parasites and disease are transferred through fecal matter. During rain runoff this risk can be transported far beyond what you thought, and to creatures you never anticipated.

Transfer of disease to wild critters and to humans is possible. Wild canids and other species such as raccoons, etc., can suffer the consequences. In addition, if you do not pick up the poop you are making sure that you create a better breeding environment for fleas. Besides being able to pass tapeworms to other animals, these guys can pester humans, pets, and wildlife!

Outdoor cats often hunt and eat their prey. Because they eat at home, they create havoc in the natural balance of nature and can endanger the valuable wildlife in the area. Eating these animals puts them into the category as carriers for transferring the disease called toxoplasmosis; it is passed through their fecal matter. Most pregnant women fear encountering this disease and putting their fetus at risk. In fact, a majority of women who encounter toxoplasmosis do so through gardening because of the naughty toileting habits of strange cats--not their own!

You have a legal responsibility, dictated under trespassing laws, to keep your animals out of someone else’s property; your neighbor could take action if they wanted. This means you are responsible for keeping your pet’s toileting habits under control and out of the neighbor’s garden, yard, and sidewalk. If you are careless in a shopping center, beach, or park you are being just plan disrespectful to the environment and others; hefty fines could belong to you!

Poop patrol helps you to monitor the health condition of your precious pet. As horrid as it might seem to analyze those feces, sudden changes in elimination habits could signal something physically wrong with your pet. In many cases, you can spot abnormalities quickly and take action to prevent more escalated veterinary problems or death. Having a good rapport with your veterinarian is important, so are regular check ups for your pet.

Litterbox avoidance, strange marking behavior, more frequent or less frequent toileting can be some of the signs you could see if something is wrong. There are many little things you could look for. By paying attention consistently, you will know what is normal and what is not. Telling the difference in abnormal consistency from too rich a diet and illness could be useful.

Food quantity or brand changes can make some differences in stool consistency. If your pet has a sudden change in the type of food fed, or an increase in quantity, the stools could be loose, or they could be very hard if you have just given your dog a raw bone or two. Remember that changes in diet or routine can influence your pet, so don’t panic the first time you see something different!

Blood or mucous in the stool could be something to follow up on by visiting the vet. Always check with your veterinary medical doctor if you suspect anything wrong. Seeing such things as white flecks in the stool may suggest tapeworms, have a fecal exam to rule out other worms too. If you have any sort of flea infestation they contribute to the problem, so get that under control too.

Remember, as a good pet owner your poop patrol duties include:
-keeping toileting areas clean for the health and welfare of your animals, family, and the other critters nearby
-cleaning up the public areas your pet soils
-being responsible enough to make sure your pet does not create a nuisance in the neighborhood by inappropriately eliminating or marking your neighbors property, and cleaning up after your critter if it does.
-monitoring the condition of your animal through paying attention while on poop patrol (remembering that any drastic changes in toileting habits may be a sign of something wrong)

General Cat Care

Many people get a cat thinking that they need no care. This is a misconception. Cats do need love and care. They need to be fed, groomed, trained and loved. They need to be protected from disease and hazards. Cats today are different from the wild cats of our ancestors and quite content to have people provide these things. They need care when we go out of town. They may also need to be treated for medical conditions.

If you want to be a better cat-owner, here are some pointers to help you take care of your cat in the best way possible. Hygiene, training, and grooming are all addressed in a logical, easy to understand format. How to use treats is addressed, so that they stay treats, not a general practice.

Cats need food, litter boxes, and flea control. Their people need the correct supplies to take care of them. While there are many good products in the general marketplace, there are specialty items you may not be aware of or may be paying top-dollar for. I can help with the latter. Specialty items can be purchased directly from the suppliers at a price that makes their use more appealing, often with free shipping.

Cat care consists of attending to the physical comforts of your cat, emotional and intellectual stimulation, and love. The physical is easy. All the "things" you need are easily accesible. Emotional and intellectual stimulation are in the way you relate to your cat. Talk to your cat. Treat it as a friend and it will be one to you. Allow your cat to express it's unique personality. Stimulate it's natural intellect with toys, games and training.

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By simply relating to your cat as you go about your day; talking to it when you enter the room, calling it for food or bed; your cat will become attentive to you. You will find your cat coming around to say "hello," asking for cuddles and play.

Tickler wands and other interactive toys will always help your cat to relate to you. Because these toys are only available for play when you offer them, your cat will ask you for them. Your cat can easily be trained to playing with these toys by offering the toys, and when your cat loses interest, give a treat and a cuddle. The treats and toys will give your cat an added reason to play with you besides the exercise and enjoyment it gets by chasing the toy you offer.

We Train Cats

Why Do We Train Cats?

Why do we train cats? Training cats is usually done for one of four reasons:

• To housebreak the cat
• To tame a feral cat
• To correct objectionable (bad) behavior developed in the cat
• To make the cat perform

Each reason is valid in its' context.

Housebreaking includes litter box, sleeping arrangements, counters and furniture, scratching posts, other pets and family members, feeding times.

Usually, a kitten learns the acceptable behaviors "by osmosis" as it grows up in the home. Most people have little difficulty with this. However; when you adopt an adult cat, your cat has different house rules than you do; and this cause friction. The cat must be retrained.

A Feral Cat must be tamed before housebreaking can occur. Taming a feral cat includes developing trust. This is not the easiest thing to do after a cat has been trapped, altered and given vaccinations. The poor thing is probably delirious with fear. Patience is the key. Let the cat lead this dance. If you plan to tame the cat, do not let it loose again after the trapping and vet visit. The cat will not be taken in again.

Correcting Objectionable Behavior calls into play a lot of training and behavioral science knowledge. Operant Conditioning is outlined and discussed. Each behavior needs to be addressed separately, and the measures used to correct one behavior may exacerbate another. The specifics of this are discussed. Clicker training is promoted, as this is the easiest way to train your cat. However, not all cats respond positively to the clicker, and you can ask the Cat Whisperer for help with these cats.

Training to Perform is a simple cycle of the task or trick, mark, reward and repeat. The hardest part is getting the cat to do the behavior the first time. The more often you associate the word or action on your part with the action desired from the cat, the more ingrained the behavior will be. Read the Operant Conditioning page for more information.